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Archive for Project Planning

How much contingency should you budget for your project?

Contingency is a part of the budget set aside to cover possible project problems.

Generally, contingency is there to cover ‘unknown conditions’ or conditions that could not have reasonably been known.  Unknown conditions are a fact of construction and there is really now way to completely avoid them, contingency prepares you for them.

How much contingency you put in the budget depends on how much you know about the project, the age  and construction of the structure, and what you can find out about what you can’t see. In new-construction, the unknown condition is generally underground.

There are ways to prepare for these problems:
In remodeling projects, the original plans or some selective demolition can help you find out what is behind walls, underneath floors, and above ceilings In pre 1970’s homes and buildings you might have paint and pipe insulation tested to ensure they do not contain lead or asbestos.

In new-construction, you can have the ground scanned with penetrating radar, and have bores dug to test and investigate what’s underground. All “unearthed” information can help lower the contingency, though a discovery may also increase your budget.

So, how much should you include for contingency in your budget?

I’ve heard so called professionals say, “Include 50% more than what you were thinking your project should cost in your budget for contingency”. Those people are basically pulling that out of… somewhere.

Professionally recognized cost estimating books, tell you contingency should be between 5% to 15% country-wide, though there are exceptions.

The amount of contingency a given project needs depends on how complete and thorough the planning process was, and how many changes an owner makes during construction. The best laid plans are often thrown off by changes. When owners create a thorough and complete plan and don’t make changes during construction contingency is rather predictable.

In my book, I include a table for knowing how much contingency the average person needs on the average residential renovation and new construction project. Here is copy of that chart and information on how to read it:

No Information With As-built drawings With Investigation & Testing
New-Construction

15%

N/A

-5%

Renovation

15%

-5%

-5%

 
Example: Renovation, No As-Builts, Investigated and Tested
                         15%                – 0 %                          – 5%                           = 10%
 

The top row is project information, the left column is project type. Start with the second “No Information” column and select the project type row 15%. If you have a renovation project and you have the most recent construction drawings or “As-Built Drawings”, subtract 5%. If you have completed non-destructive, destructive and testing as-needed, subtract 5%. The remaining amount is your estimated contingency.

You can see from the chart and the example that the more information you have on the project the less contingency generally needed. Use this chart on your next project to help you estimate the amount of contingency you need.

Making FF&E, Material and Finish Selections

The term FF&E is an acronym for Furniture, Fixtures, and Equipment.

Furniture is movable items such as tables and chairs. Fixtures are the immovable items such as cabinets. Equipment is a machine such as a water-heater or air conditioner. All are used to make a house or other space suitable for living and/or working.

Materials and Finishes, are generally talked about in one of two ways; products and construction materials. Every product you choose while developing your project plan will be made of a specific material with specific finish options.

People sometimes use the terms Material and Finish, interchangeably, but they are not the same thing. Material is what a raw component is actually made of, while the term Finish describes the sheen, color, and texture.

For example, people often talk about paint as if it is a finish, which it is, but only in the context of being applied to another product, like drywall (sheet rock). However, nowadays the paint itself comes in countless finish combinations when considering available colors, texture additives (like popcorn), and sheen such as gloss, semi-gloss and flat.

Manufacturers differentiate their product lines by generally providing better materials, finishes and options in higher priced products.

The same is true in construction. The qualities of products on the market today generally fit into many different categories: Economy, Basic, Common, Deluxe, Luxury, and Custom – or other similar words. Companies can use different words to describe the same quality level, even among manufacturers of similar products.

There are incalculable combinations of Material, Finish and product combinations. There are so many, there is no way to cover all of them, but don’t let that overwhelm you.

Construction Conductor explains how you can use that to your advantage in Who Selects What.

Can You Afford a Project Manager?

Many homeowners look at the idea of hiring a Project Manager as an extra, unnecessary expense in their home building project. “After all,” they think to themselves, “I’m already paying an Architect and a General Contractor. Both of them are supposed to be managing my project, why should I hire another manager?”

That’s actually a very good question, one that I hope you’ll let me answer for you. First of all, these three people, the Architect, the Contractor and the Project Manager all have different functions, even though they look like they are all doing some of the same things. We need to understand what the difference between their different functions and different outlook is.

The Architect is concerned about the design of your home. He wants to build you something that is going to make him look good, while providing you with a home that will keep your family safe and comfortable. Although most Architects also claim to manage the construction project, what they’re really doing is making sure that your home is built according to their design and specifications; not trying to save you, the owner, money.

The General Contractor is concerned about how your home is built. More specifically, he’s concerned about how much it costs to get built. You have a contract with him, which limits the amount of money which you’ll pay for his services. So, he wants to make sure that the project costs less than that, ensuring his profit. He’ll do the best possible job, within those parameters. But, when push comes to shove, he’ll sacrifice quality to keep his profit.

The Project Manager doesn’t have to worry about the design or the profits. If you hire a Project Manager, he doesn’t need to worry about his profits, because you’re already paying him to do the job. His concern is that the whole project is completed in the best possible way, in order to make you, the customer, happy.

You see, the Project Manager is the only one of those three who is your advocate as an owner. He’s the only one whose best interests are to look out for your best interests. That makes his focus much different than the other two professionals whom you are working with.

The important thing in getting the maximum benefit from the services of a Project Manager is when in the overall project timeline the owner hires him. The greatest savings for the owner comes from hiring the Project Manager first, even before hiring the Architect. In this way, he can be proactive for the owner from the very beginning, before any other professionals are hired.

If the Project Manager is hired first, he can do the most good. As the owner’s representative, he can locate, interview and negotiate the best possible contract for the Architectural work. As part of this negotiation, the Project Manager can negotiate with the Architect to remove the extra costs associated with contract administration, communication and schedule management out of the Architect’s contract. Since the Project Manager would be handling these functions, there is no reason to pay the Architect for them as well.

By doing things this way, there is no additional cost to the owner for having a Project Manager on their home building project. In fact, since Project Managers typically charge lower rates than Architects, there would probably be an overall savings. However if the Project Manager is hired after the architect, then they are unable to negotiate the administrative savings, so the additional cost would be the cost of the Project Manager, less any savings that they can provide throughout the project. Finally, if the Project Manager is hired after the General Contractor, he is only able to provide damage control. His payment would be over and above whatever other contract costs.

If you feel that you need an advocate, someone who is looking out for your best interests in your home building project, then you need an independent Project Manager. Your Architect and Contractor may be friendly, qualified professionals; but they aren’t your best advocate, the Project Manager is.

A plan for the investment house.

There’s a certain panic in the air right now, all the lip service Ive been paying to these game changing  house projects I’ve talked up.
Up to now Ive had all kinds of things in my path, like Christmas shopping- the holidays- holiday take-downs and put-aways, and finally the Super bowl. So now I think I need a plan.

Being in the industry my whole adult life, Work is work and generally I move in directions that utilize materials I have or are available to me.
Next the degree of difficulties due to obstructions. Ultimately comforts can also be measured by resetting the grief meter with nearest critics; the wife and neighbors.
So any way to get out of the hole making traction, has potential benefits.

For me this year that project is the house next door.
The house was in bad shape when we bought it, and we bought it mostly to have control over it (bad experiences with previous owners).
To date the work done consists of a new septic and sewer piping to it, and 3 new skylights.
My next project is raising the floor to take a huge dip out of it. After assessing the structural situation. The real problem with the floor leveling is the previous attempts which were done wrong and now create a huge obstacle to undo.

After looking at the problems with trying to level on top of the floor, my newest approach will be to work perpendicular creating a beam directly under a wall and jacking up the beam from 2 new concrete pads, then supporting the beam with 2 mini posts.

If I’m lucky this just may make the leveling above the floor minimal by comparison.

This is my time of year to set up mini projects with in a project, besides the floor leveling, Ive taken advantage of material sales and stock piled drywall and doors to install after the floor leveling.
Besides that, I have my eye out for deals on roofing and paint.
By procuring the material now I’m mentally committing myself plus I’m trying to thoroughly think through the mini projects and once I start up I should be able to roll from one to another.
Well I guess were all arm chair quarterbacks in January, but now that’s done and this is my plan to get on a roll!
Ill keep you posted,

Another view from a loose screw!